Neil Beckett | Lemon-gold, good luster. An attractive, gently beeswaxy and honeyed nose, but no evident botrytis, so perhaps from the wood. Dense and intense, round and supple, still with enough fluency and forward momentum, despite the slight oak drag. Impressive scale and volume, without being at all heavy or sluggish. Lemon confit in flavor, but enough sheer concentration and underlying salinity to hold its shape and our interest. | 91