Neil Beckett | Medium-deep, a natural glow. Still relatively subdued on the nose, but still plenty of aromatic intrigue: black-fruited, but with a graphite and menthol freshness and light "mineral" reduction. Cushioned on entry, plush, with very fine tannins, from fruit and stems rather than wood, with good definition and inner freshness to balance the massive richness and weight of the fruit, so it doesn't seem at all heavy: effortless grandeur, a broad, deep, slow-moving river, spectacularly long, leaving minerals in its wake. | 95