Andrew Jefford | Pale silver-gold. Muter and rounder than most; warm Rieslingesque fruits, but some lack of aromatic precision. Thoroughly inviting, nonetheless. Delicious, quite linear Riesling; lovely concentration, wealth, limey depths, dry essences. Lots of harmony, too, which may be why I have (erroneously) sounded critical about “lack of aromatic precision”; this is deft, structured, long, vinous, sustained but never lean, obvious, or warm. The fruit allusions may be round, but they are all there, beautifully arrayed as in a mandala. Gathered and resonantly taut (not “lean and tightly wound”) and singing: super. Wise winemaking, a super site, and this is a wine that will bring much pleasure. Once again, I can see this as Alsace or Germany. | 92
Stephan Reinhardt | This mature Riesling opens pure but deep, intense, and with a spicy-mineral tone of ripe, elegant Riesling berries and mirabelle aromas intertwined with earthy tones of crushed (sand-) stones, morels, and chicory. Round, intense, and very complex on the silky textured and harmonious palate, this is full-bodied, deep, rich, and intense, as well as powerful but also elegant, refined, and detailed, with a long and forceful finish that reveals notes of sage and salts, as well as fine phenolics and a ripe, harmonious tartaric acidity. Still young and probably not in its best phase today but doubtlessly impressive and worth cellaring for a decade or two. Very long and complex. 2023–37. | 94
Anthony Rose | Behind the pale lemon hue, this is a tad shy on the nose, but nicely full-bodied and rich in stone-fruit flavors, etched with enough citrus-peel tang to add balance to what might otherwise feel a tad heavy; attractively balanced and dry. | 89
Details
Wine expert | Andrew Jefford Anthony Rose Stephan Reinhardt |
Tastings year | 2021 |
Region | Alsace |
Appellation | AOC - Grand Cru |
% Alcohol By Volume | 14 |
Domaine Valentin Zusslin

