Andrew Jefford | Pale silver-gold. I think this wine is a bit cork- compromised, and we have only the one bottle— I sniff cardboard rather than fruit, and we think the wine might be cork-scalped. On the palate, it is clearly very deep, serious, and searching, with deep, dry fruit and with considerable architecture, but I fear it doesn’t have the allusiveness it should have. Grand stuff, but I can’t see it clearly, so suggest we rely on Stephan’s note here, since he will be tasting a different bottle. I will have put 90, but this is in a sense a dummy score. No suggestion of Alsace or Germany for this reason, though probably Alsace, I suspect. | 90
Stephan Reinhardt | Clear, precise, and flinty on the intense, ripe, and concentrated, spicy-mineral nose that opens this substantial Riesling, which comes onto the palate as a full-bodied, rich, powerful, dense, and textural wine, with palatable tannins and salty phenols. Well made, also ambitious, but not really stimulating for me. The finish is too dry and short, even though the wine has substance, grip, and power. Not the very best moment perhaps. 2024–40. | 92
Anthony Rose | Pale lemony hue, this is a tad blunt in aromas, possibly scalped from a light touch of cork, but behind that, first up a crisp spritz, with a stone- fruit presence on the tongue that’s fresh and juicy and underpinned by a distinctly stony, dry streak that takes this wine beyond fruit in the direction of minerality; hard to define, but nonetheless, you know it when you taste it. | 92
Details
Wine expert | Andrew Jefford Anthony Rose Stephan Reinhardt |
Tastings year | 2021 |
Region | Alsace |
Appellation | AOC |
% Alcohol By Volume | 14 |