Andrew Jefford | Dark black-red in color; almost opaque. Complex, arresting aromas in which the usual lunging fruits of the vintage step back a little. There are spice, earth, and savory notes here. Complex, intriguing and vintage-eluding. Admirable Moulis terroir notes here, with its clays to the fore. Texture, poise, and depth, and much better ripeness than many, yet at the same time fresh, lean, and lithe. This Poujeaux slips you a 2017 take on the knife-and-fork Moulis of tradition. The tannins are soft and tender, but it’s the complex smudge of flavors that mark the wine out: more than simply pure, fine-drawn fruit here. Satisfying, bass-sustained 2017, even if it doesn’t have the chewiness of a good or great vintage. | 90

Michael Schuster | This is currently closed and gravelly on the nose with just a touch of a herbal impression; medium-full, fresh, lightly tannic. No meanness here, but the year means that this has less of the chunky richness that is often so appealing in Poujeaux. The flavor is ripe red fruit, modest in length and complexity, attractive enough— but clearly less joyously juicy than is usual here. Now to 2030. | 87