Stephen Brook | There are exotic tones on the nose: banana aromas, as well as apricot. There’s a nimble character to the palate, which comes as a welcome surprise after the super-ripe tones on the younger vintages. The acidity gives a sherbetty tang and brings out some minerality. While far from complex, it has some grace and charm on the finish. Quite long. | 90

Simon Field | Lemon-straw, bright. Nose of quince, sherbet, just a touch of eucalypt leaf. Palate is structurally enigmatic; seemingly both fragile and elegantly composed. Thyme and mace evidenced beyond, within a secondary realm that already appears entwined by tertiary notes. Verbena and lime and an almost minty purity; I suspect that this one is about to sleep, only to emerge three to four years hence, supporting entirely different kerosene-driven credentials. But don’t quote me. | 92

Andrew Jefford | Bright mid-gold. This is very appealing: lots of crème caramel and apricot soufflé. I wouldn’t keep it much longer, but just now it’s a cutie. Vivid and full; moderate concentration and, for me, now fully evolved. The style is very much as I have outlined on the aromas. Ripe white Northern Rhône at its straightforward apogee. | 88