Stephen Brook | There’s subtle fruit on the nose, with pear and apricot aromas and a dash of sherbet. The attack is reasonably crisp, but it’s far from vibrant. There’s a softness that seems an indication of low acidity. It’s hard to imagine much future for this wine, which is now showing all that it contains. It’s easygoing and amiable but lacks structure and drive. Fairly short. | 85

Simon Field | Soft gold, with a nose that combines late- season apples, dried straw, and a hint of lanolin. The palate is diffuse, not quite knit together, Roussanne and Marsanne jostling for attention. Oak also plays a part, albeit subtly; maybe this will achieve integration, or maybe these temperamental bedfellows will grow further and further apart. | 89

Andrew Jefford | Bright silver-gold. Firm, fresh aromas, though without huge nuance and detail. But there is a sense of depth and presence, so perhaps give it some time. Plant sap and leaves provide the principal notes, and there is a sweet glycerous fullness to the aroma, too. Ten minutes later, the wine continues to open. Mouth-filling, lively, stony, with some texture. Subtle, complex, and classic flavors of almonds, honey, peach, and mango (though sublimated, not primary). It’s not the most concentrated wine in the lineup, but I love its sense of assurance and authority. A very good bottle of St-Péray, which will continue to improve over a decade. | 92