Michael Schuster | A fine, subtle, and persistent gravel-aroma’d nose—classy; beautifully balanced wine, rich and quite powerful, but fresh at the same time, and with a notably fine-firm tannin texture; sweetly ripe, graceful, and understated despite its also evident power, long and close-grained across the palate, mouthcoating, firm, harmonious, and with great length to finish. A wine of both power and subtlety (is there the merest hint of raisiny ripeness?), a touch warm from the alcohol if you are sensitive to that, but very fine Calon, needing plenty of time. 2034–55+.