Michael Schuster | “Concentration” “power” and “structure” are not words I would normally use to describe Ducru. But there has been a deliberate change in the style of the wine recently, especially noticeable over the past two years. Owner Bruno Borie said to me that the aim has been to make something “a bit richer and a bit bigger”; he felt it had become too “feminine”: “We are aiming to make make something a little more muscular but, as with the greatest ballet dancers, what you notice is the grace of the overall performance... not the musculature as such.” Nicely put! Dense, fine, subtly gravel-tinged blackcurrant Cabernet, a beautiful bouquet in prospect; full-bodied, concentrated, freshly defined, firmly tannic wine, a lovely, complete, top-quality constitution; deep, compact, concentrated, with a mass of flavor, long, complex, profound, top-notch St-Julien impressions, mouthcoating, ample, resonant, and with great fruit and aroma length. A wine of power, structure, scope, harmony; long-term, but full of promise. Great Ducru. Poised, complete, but needing a decade and a half at least. 2035–55+.