Michael Schuster | Dense in fine fruit and subtle gravel aromas, very persistent to smell; full-bodied, concentrated wine, fresh in acidity, firmly tannic; deep and sweet and refined in flavor, immediately mouthcoating with a gentle (alcohol) warmth, very complex and tenacious to taste, a wine of great scope and considerable power and very fine, sweetly scented length, all within a particularly fine-textured tannin. Top-quality wine, no question, but of a very different character, and with rather different virtues, from the Haut-Brion that used to be 12.5%–13.5% ABV. And it is worth noting that. The class is still there, but it is a changed expression, that of a now-changed (because of the warming climate) terroir, with the resultant wine remaining impressive, but less easily drinkable, less graceful, subtly aromatic and refreshing, than it used to be. 2035–55+.