Stephen Brook | Lovely nose, with stone fruits and tropical fruit, too; thus exotic without being overblown. Broad and velvety, with a succulent texture making up for the slight lack of energy and precision. There’s both minerality and acidity on the mid-palate, giving some complexity and structure. A distinct tanginess sets this apart from many others and enlivens the finish. Long. | 92

Andrew Jefford | Mid depth of gold. Ample, sweet, spicy warmth and scents of summer plant growth with quieter green-plum fruits beneath. There’s just a faint reductive touch also. Bright, fresh, full, and forceful on the palate, with plenty of cut and edge. A GV that thinks it’s a Riesling. | 86

Stephan Reinhardt | Intensely yellow in color, this 2018 Veltliner is deep, pure, and fine on the complex and refined, mineral nose. Full-bodied, intense, and very salty on the palate, this is a Burgundian Veltliner of immense complexity, tension and finesse. The wine is silky textured, bone-dry, self-confident, has a fine grip and a sustainable structure, with the finest tannins from the aging in oak. It will age for decades. This is a new dimension for Grüner Veltliner, and readers shouldn’t miss it. | 96