Bruno Besa | Brilliant straw. Open, clean, citrus-fruit nose. Vinous, with lemons, flowers, and fresh herbs. Balanced palate, inviting, lightish finish. | 88

Andrew Jefford | Bright steel-gold. Just off-neutral; a little nut and tangerine. The wine is much better on the palate, in fact, than the nose suggested, to the extent that I keep going back in the hope that there will be more development. The palate is vivid, fresh, and long, with real complexity of fruit, fine balance, and admirable drinkability. Those floral notes are quietly apparent on the palate, behind the apple and apricot fruit. There’s a crispness and a zestiness, too. Very complete, and a subtler wine than [the Colli di Lapio di Romano Clelia Fiano di Avellino 2018]—indeed, that aromatic discretion may be a function of its subtlety. Outstanding work here. | 92

Michael Palij | Dominated by notes of lees contact, including lactic notes, yogurt, dairy, and puff pastry. There is some concentrated fruit here, but it’s hard to find underneath all the secondary character. The winemaking seems to be choking out the fruit for now. | 82