Bruno Besa | Straw with golden highlights. A slightly overripe and slightly oxidized yellow-fruit nose. A touch jammy on the palate, with a fairly simple finish. | 84

Andrew Jefford | Bright, clean green-white in color. Sweetly sappy, leafy, some ginger cream; characterful but appealing. A little apricot fruit, too, as if this contained 15 percent Viognier. Honeyed notes, also. Rather heavy on the palate, with some oxidative deterioration, though one relishes the characterfulness! | 84

Michael Palij | Pronounced and developed nose with toffee apple, honey, butter, and citrus peel. The finish is long and complex, with obvious yeast contact, ripe stone fruit, and a dominant malolactic character. The extra year in bottle gives this wine an appealing tertiary note. | 85