Neil Beckett | For Hervé, this cuvée is strongly marked by its Butteaux component, whose white-clay soil renders it a paysan noble ("noble peasant"), in his words. Fresh but rich on the nose, with a light quince note. Dense and powerful, but adequate tension, too, so the magnificent scale is more remarkable for its depth than its breadth, and it is on the explosive finish that it really shows its class. Impressive. | 92