Neil Beckett | The dynamic and talented young team here continues to innovate, and following the consistently impressive Vieille Voye cuvée introduced a few years ago, it has added three new wines to the range this vintage: a very compelling Chablis Cuvée 0 (as in zero, because no added SO2); a pure, silky, and supple barrel-fermented and -raised Butteaux, which used to be blended into the Vaillons until the parcel was replanted less than 10 years ago; and most exciting of all for me, an exquisite old-vine L'Homme Mort, bottled separately rather than being part of the still-superb Fourchaumes Vieilles Vignes. A barrel selection (made on the same basis as the Réserve de l'Obédience) left a precious 1,000 bottles or so. Platinum; excellent clarity, intensity, and purity to the gently exotic florality on the nose, a supremely subtle weave; ravishingly silky, aérien, effortlessly gliding and soaring, Lark Ascending levity, fabulous graceful intensity and persistence. | 94