Neil Beckett | A Clos fully worthy of its generally lofty reputation. Although harvested relatively early, on August 30–31, this is aromatically expressive, more so than usual at this early stage, with neither underripeness nor overripeness: spot on. All barrel- fermented, but the oak is integrating well, the lightly spicy wood framing rather than masking the very intense, pure fruit-and-flower nose (so seamless that it is difficult to identify any individual strands). Denser and richer than the excellent Bougros, but effortlessly grand, with the composure, harmony, and purity to match its intensity and potency, fully revealed on the fantastic, flourishing finish. | 96