Neil Beckett | Pale lemon-gold. An attractive nose, delicate and subtle but positive, lightly reductive and toasty, but the lemon and white stone fruit shines through. Medium-bodied and silky on entry, dynamic, racy, and vibrant, but controlled, concentrated, and persistent, too. Complete, delicious, invigorating, even scintillating Hautes-Côtes (ciselé, as it says on the back label) from a 2.5-acre (1ha) east-facing plot up on the Nuits-St-Georges plateau. | 89