Neil Beckett | The passionate and sensitive Pierre de Benoist believes that biodynamic cultivation helped the vines cope with the warmth of the year, resulting in grapes that were amazingly fresh in acidity as well as perfectly healthy and ripe. And so it seems from this brilliantly complete expression of the village, from 17 different parcels across nine lieux-dits, vinified in nine foudres. Pierre is surely right that this reveals itself as a true vin de terroir only after a few years, but even now there is nothing shrilly varietal: a captivating scent, enticingly ripe but totally transparent, with the faintest whiff of white pepper from the whole-bunch pressing. Excellent energy, intensity, and limpidity on the palate, not at all angular but exquisitely finely pointed, with a perfectly pitched phenolic pithiness. | 90–91