Bruno Besa | Golden to straw. Open, intense, mature, with just a touch of new oak. Mature yellow fruits on the nose, with a complex citrus-fruit character. Rich, mature palate. Super, layered, yellow stone fruit, and a very long, citrus finish. | 93

Andrew Jefford | Paler than most of its 2017 peers: a light straw gold. Rather dry and ungiving aromas, with a faint tang. A touch of sileage, too, though this blows off with time. Vivid, full, concentrated, and deep on the palate. It’s very Old-World, unlovely, rather spiky, edgy, unpredictable, as I can now see that Timorasso is, but deep-driving, gastronomic, and secondary, with nutty and composted-fruit complexities dominating the palate and long finish. Eerie, confronting, but worthwhile. | 90

Michael Palij | Textured, earthy, smoky, complex, mineral, beguiling, waxy, compelling, this has an exceptional finish that is marred only by the obvious skin-contact note that robs it of some complexity. The finish is powerful but reminiscent of skin—rather than lees—contact. | 87