Bruno Besa | Straw with golden highlights. Muscular, broad, complex yellow-fruits character, with crushed stones, camomile, sage, and mint undertones. Mature palate, with clean, rich, yellow fruit. Lively and complex finish. | 91

Andrew Jefford | Pale silver-gold. Some of the oniony character of the grape’s genetics comes through here, mingled with some sweeter and more attractive pea and pea-flower. There’s lots of acidity here, and the wine is very cleanly defined; those floral notes persist on the palate and bring some welcome charm to a white wine style which sometimes seems everything save charming. Deftly made and well-judged. | 87

Michael Palij | Ripe and forward nose, with crème pâtissière, nectarine, white peach, and a dairy, leesy character that leads to a slightly bitter, phenolic finish. The wine’s fresh acidity provides structure but the lasting impression is one of bitterness, possibly from excessive skin contact. | 81