Bruno Besa | Brilliant light straw. Restrained, clean, slightly closed, mineral nose. Aromatic, with citrus peel, elderflower, and fresh herbs. Rather one-dimensional on the palate, yet clean, with a long, mineral finish. | 89

Andrew Jefford | Steel-white. Fresh, taut, and lively. The aromatic allusions are vegetal/nutty rather than fruity in style. Attractive. Fresh and shapely though slender on the palate, without much depth or follow-through. Clean and attractive to drink, but like so many of its peers it doesn’t quite make the cut as “fine wine.” | 84

Michael Palij | Very simple nose, with no obvious fruit character. On the palate, there are some tropical notes of banana, mango, and lees influence, including sour cream but, on balance, the wine lacks concentration. | 82