Essi Avellan: Lemon color. Oxidative notes overlay the appley nose. Charred elements bring complexity. Ripe, appley fruit, with earthy mineral and woody notes. Crisp acidity breathes life into it. | 86

Simon Field: Burly, shouty, and oaky; rich and resonant; red apples with hints of toffee and brioche; this mature and somewhat decadent style may have its followers, but they are likely to make up a fairly modest quorum. | 85

Tom Stevenson: Volatile oak and rapeseed, with oxidizing fruit underneath, although rich, and curiously, it does have some freshness. | 78