Andrew Jefford | Dark red-black but not opaque. Very aromatically beguiling: poised, understated, felted red and black fruit mixed, with rich plum, blackcurrant, and blackberry, cep cream, and juicy unlit tobacco from sea captain’s tins. Singing out and unrestrained at present. On the palate, by contrast, it is just a little less scrutable thus far: concentrated, deep, poised, and fresh, with vibrant acidity a more prominent structuring note than tannins, which are fine-milled and soft. Classic currants hold center stage for the palate, and they are concentrated and well upholstered with nascent savory touches. Everything bodes well for a long-term classic Haut-Bailly, though it’s always a wine that stands a little bit apart from its peers in style terms: a lyrical tenor in a choir of baritones. | 92

Michael Schuster | Haut-Bailly at 14%—now, that is change! Subtly gravelly, fairly closed nose; very elegantly balanced in a fairly full style, fresh and finely tannic; its fullness notwithstanding, here is the classic delicacy of Haut-Bailly, pure, finely gravelly, freshly ripe, aromatic, complex, long, and complete. Retaining the sense of its terroir, despite the “weight.” Long and graceful and with excellent, gravel-fragrant length. 2024–40+. | 93+