“Once you have that level of close contact with one of the great winemakers, people are willing to give you a bit of fruit, because they like the idea of seeing their vineyard on what will become a famous wine,” says Campbell.

“Matt makes a fantastic Chardonnay – he understands full well that there’s a lot of sun in California and that you can try and make European Chardonnay but actually, if you’re farming land that gives you great ripeness, then why not embrace it and make something that could only ever be Californian.”

Finding these producers requires patience and local knowledge. For Campbell, the trick is to “get under the skin of the place” and he is looking forward to returning to the US as travel restrictions lift.

“You have to sift through a lot of wineries that don’t have the integrity and authenticity we’re looking for,” he says. “But we’re constantly trying to find those little geysers of creativity where people that understand the land are making genuinely interesting wines.”

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