Auckland was first planted with grapes in the early 1900s, and it now offers some stellar Chardonnay, Bordeaux blend reds, and even Syrah. (Tempranillo, Fiano, and Albariño have all been planted recently, but it will be a considerable time before we see them in impactful quantities.) A few Auckland producers have broken out and developed interests across the country, but in general this is a region of small wineries, spread out through the diverse subregions. Among these small operations, one in particular stands out.
Kumeu River, in the hands of Michael Brajkovich MW, is world-famous for its Chardonnays. It also offers Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and sparkling wines, but the received opinion is quite right: It is the Chardonnays that are world-class. (See Sarah Marsh MW, Kumeu River 80th Anniversary: 2002–2020 Chardonnay, WFW 87, pp.84–87).
Nor is Kumeu River the only producer of fine Chardonnay, which is the variety here considered the most consistent and consistently the best. Its aging potential was confirmed by The Landing (2011), from the beautiful Bay of Islands region. Similarly, the Gillman Vineyard 2009 has aged well, still full of complexity and energy after 15 years. It a blend of Merlot, Malbec, and plenty of Cabernet Franc; the latter grows well here, even in cooler years.
The famed Waiheke Island in Auckland Harbour, meanwhile, produces some of the country’s most exciting Bordeaux blends. Te Motu was established in the late 1980s by Paul Dunleavy, who had legendary Kiwi winemaker Tom McDonald as mentor. Though more expensive than most Kiwi wines, its 2019—a great vintage on the Island—is stunning, with notes of the finest Cuban cigars, florals, and dark berries.
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From Clevedon in Auckland, Purini Hills makes wines based on the best from the Right Bank of Bordeaux and has become one of New Zealand’s most exciting cult producers. Production here is usually around 1,200 bottles.
These regions might suffer because they are so tiny and discreet, but they offer some superstar wineries, Kumeu River and Purini Hills most notably. Worth watching.
Auckland and thereabouts: A selection
2021 The Landing Madre Chardonnay ($122)
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After being pressed into French oak, the wine spent 11 months on lees. 2021 was a fine vintage. Powerful aromatics, with bright acidity and chalky notes as a backing. Citrus and peach. There is great length here. I enjoy it now, but it has such potential for the future and would benefit from a decant before drinking. | 94
2019 Gillman Vineyard (pre-release)
Although the release will be late 2024, this already promises to impress. Remember that production can be as low as 200 bottles. A blend of 74% Cabernet Franc, 24% Merlot, and 2% Malbec. Plums, cigar boxes, bergamot, a hint of raspberries, and cold black tea. Fine tannins and a lingering finish. | 93
2021 Te Motu (pre-release)
It will be several years before this is available, but it is showing such promise that it is well worth noting. From a slightly warmer vintage than 2019, this is 59% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Merlot, with the remainder Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Tobacco-leaf notes, mulberries, spices, and herbs. Seamless and seductive, impeccably balanced, with great length. Expect it to be even more exciting when the wine is finally released. | 94
2020 Purini Hills Pope ($240)
This is a curious blend—57% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 17% Carmenère, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. (The inclusion of Carmenère comes as a surprise.) Two years in French casks, 80% new. A seriously impressive wine. Cassis, aniseed, florals, plums, blueberries, and dry herbs. A rather gentle but lingering finish, silky tannins, and wine-long concentration. This has 15–20 years ahead of it, surely, and the longer one leaves it, the better. | 95
2020 Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay ($95)
This famous wine is from the vineyard planted in 1990. It was first released in 1994, the year following Maté’s death. Whole-bunch pressing, wild yeasts, 100% barrel fermentation, 100% malolactic, and then 11 months barrel maturation. This is Burgundy grand cru quality. The nose gives aromas of a lemon/lime compote, with florals, guava, and orange-rind notes. Seriously complex, this has great intensity and length. A wonderful Chardonnay. | 97
