Simon Field: Full-bodied, and expressive in every respect; wood cuttings, graphite, and a gentle intimation of oxidation, perhaps; far from the archetype, in other words. The palate reverberates to this rather unfamiliar tune, and there is something a little hollow on the mid-palate. | 87

Andrew Jefford: Saturated midnight-black. Sweet, perfumed, with a fog of tea leaf and sweet blackcurrant. There’s some yeasty youthfulness in there, too. Amply fruited, but rather monodimensional, at least for now: sweet, with dry fruits beneath, but it lacks a little freshness and resonance. The finish is almost tart, with sweetness, if you see what I mean. | 85

Richard Mayson: Deep, opaque black color; ripe, plump on the nose, heady, a touch leathery, could be overextracted. Rich and plump initially, full, broad, ripe tannins supporting the ripe plum and dark-berry fruit. But again, rather leathery. Quite satisfying already but better in five years plus. 2023–60. | 85