Simon Field: A fine aroma, almost claret in its poise and rigor; the palate has filigree elegance, poised for such a powerful wine, its bright intensity inspiring and floral, the mouthfeel heady but far from overwhelming, with precision on the finish, which is firm and elegiac, ascetic yet generous, the paradox of pleasure writ large. | 90

Andrew Jefford: Dark, saturated black-red. This wine lacks the sheer chundering volume of scent of some of its peers. On the plus side, though, there is more blackcurranty freshness than most of them have managed in 2003. Lots of crushed pepper, too, and fine Havana complexities. The result is sweet and enticing, detaining—and subtle. Very fine. Textured and deep on the palate, with huge concentration, drive, extract, and planty freshness: a monumental 2003 Port on the palate (I have a feeling it still hasn’t reached its aromatic apogee), with years left to run. There is real balance here, too; this wine certainly has higher sustaining acidity than many of its 2003 peers. A hugely impressive wine. | 95

Richard Mayson: Very deep and opaque; closed and tight-knit on the nose, giving very little away, seemingly a bit hard and unyielding; cherry-stone fruit initially, backed by firm, spicy tannins but lacking a bit in flesh and depth, with a rather one-dimensional finish. 2023–50. | 90