Simon Field: Youthful, bright, Byronic, powerful; all descriptors apposite for the year that was 2003. A forward, slightly oxidative style, heady yet attractive, fine-tuned and powerful, figs, raisins, and a potent alcoholic backdrop. Eucalypt, a touch resinous, the linear acidity rigorously defined and cleansing at the back of the palate. Lapidary charm, persuasive of intent. | 92

Andrew Jefford: Saturated, dark black-red. Meaty, dense, perfumed, again with the characteristic beefiness of the 2003s: chunky, broad-shouldered, in that aromas can be broad-shouldered. Blackcurrant, pepper, bitter orange peel, too. This is a good Port, but it isn’t as dense and as massive as the best of its peers, and its fruit has also taken on quite a lot of date and fig character. Luscious, kinky, great fun, and of course amply tannin-backed, but we are a bit off-beam for the Vintage proposition (whereas other 2003s have managed to keep that figginess at bay). It will, though, also endure: These ’03s are truly long-distance runners, regardless of the quality of the fruit, and you should have some in your cellar, for sure. I should also say that this wine is rather fleshier than some. | 91

Richard Mayson: Deep, though not as opaque as some of the ’03s; purple on the rim. Open, ripe, minty, though seemingly not as big or punchy as some on the nose; soft and plummy initially, with firm peppery tannins leading to a rather lean one-dimensional finish. Ready now (just), and drink to 2050. | 88