Neil Beckett | A consistently outstanding version of this cru, far more in the spirit of Chambolle than Morey (to pander to the stereotypes). Pale to mid-ruby. No negative signs of the 100% whole-bunch fermentation, which has left only a captivating kirsch fragrance. A little less aérien than the Mazoyères or the Musigny, naturally, but even greater richness and succelence. A hugely pleasurable, not merely powerful, Bonnes Mares. | 96