Bruno Besa | Deep garnet to pink. Slightly closed red-fruit nose, with a youthful character but still layered: bing cherries, with hints of cedarwood and tar. Medium to full body, compact, clean fruit, big yet very refined tannins giving way to layered cherry fruit and long, lively finish. This needs a few years to show its best but is a great effort. | 94

Stephen Brook | The nose is dumb and rather dour, with hints of tar, as well as solid if inexpressive cherry fruit. The attack is silky and vibrant, which comes as a surprise, and the up-front fruit is balanced by firm but ripe tannins. The finish is foursquare, and it’s not clear how this will develop or whether it will acquire more nuance and subtlety, but it’s a concentrated and satisfying mouthful of fruit. | 90

Andrew Jefford | Clear translucent ruby red. Sweet, light, open, but with lower aromatic resources of fruit than the best of this wine’s peers. It’s generously constituted on the palate, with roasty fruit and chunky tannins: sound and satisfying, though with little aromatic intricacy and finesse. 2018–23. | 87