Bruno Besa | Garnet to pink, a slightly orange hue. Compact, mature, complex nose, still a touch closed, with prunes, plums, black cherries, smoke, and complex truffle and forest-floor undertones. Medium to full body, balanced, with layered black fruit, super-refined tannins, and a long, generous, complex, fragrant finish. | 94

Stephen Brook | The nose is fragrant, piquant, and very pretty, but it remains reticent. Light and deft on the palate, but it does show good concentration and firm tannins. So, the lightness is deceptive, as the palate is lifted by good acidity that gives the wine poise rather than power. It’s persistent but no blockbuster, and it’s hard to decide now whether it’s simply a lighter and more approachable style or a wine that just lacks complexity. Quite long. | 86

Andrew Jefford | Light, clear garnet red. Lots of sweet cherry here, with a little tobacco complexity, but less subtle than most. The wine is full-flavored, earthy, generous, a touch forceful, but it won’t send you away empty-handed. Lots of robust generosity here. Concentrated, too. 2018–23. | 87