Stephen Brook | Bright gold. The nose is a splendid cocktail of stone-fruits, mandarins, and pineapple, voluptuous and exotic. Sweet and creamy, this heads off excessive unctuousness with its fine acidity. Forceful and heady but elegant, this has concentration and a mouthwatering finish. | 91

Andrew Jefford | Deep full gold. An attractive combination of lemony freshness and honeyed sweetness. Less rich than the Castelnau: fresher and livelier. But some nice botrytis, too. Tangy, fresh, and bright on the palate, with lemony cleansing at the end. 2018–22. | 87