Stephen Brook: Light gold. Fresh, focused nose, quite citric and apricotty, with some oak still apparent. Very sweet but has intensity, too, thanks to fine acidity. Indeed, that acidity seems a touch fierce in a wine with some age. There’s a slight candied quality, too. This has vitality and freshness but perhaps lacks a little complexity. However, it’s a fine and vigorous wine, with a bright, long pineapple finish. 17.5

Margaret Rand: Very concentrated, intense, burned, and slightly hot. A very intense wine—one for sipping rather than for drinking. Rich and enormous and very powerful. Very, very good, though its size slightly masks how good it is; perhaps it will need another 10–15 years to really show its quality. 19

Michael Schuster: Mature gold; light wax and honey maturity, with a light botryitis complexity; nicely balanced, rich middleweight, with a fresh acidity; sweet without being intensely so; moderate complexity but actually nice length across the palate; gently aromatic, and with good length; very good, and very attractive, without being really fine. Lovely now and for many years to come. To 2020+. 16