Alison Buchanan: This fathomless mahogany brew intrigues on the nose with an unusual blend of sweet and savory elements, braised beef allied to dark chocolate, prunes, figs, and raisins. It may not sound too alluring, but this array is nonetheless intriguing The palate is super-opulent and, bereft of that savory meaty element, gives way to indulgent dried fruit, orange zest, and milk chocolate. This is massively tantalizing and incredibly opulent but has enough energy to work. | 92

Andrew Jefford: Dense, saturated black-red. Spicy and vivacious, with lifted mint-cream notes and lots of bubbled raisin sweetness. A promising noseful, if a little less aromatically refined than the best of its peers. Very salty-sweet on the palate: a high tide of grand sugars, thick and lizard-like on the tongue, and almost chocolaty toward the finish. This beast-like weight is quite something; you’ll never forget being invaded by a mouthful of this. For me, though, this sensational wine doesn’t quite hit the perfumed heights of the very best of its peers—but for sheer heavy-metal power, thrust, and engine-oil unction, it’s a champ. | 94

Margaret Rand: Both savory and friendly—has that lovely Seville marmalade bitterness, but without the austerity, and you either like that austerity or not. Lush texture, sweetness well in balance with bitter citrus-pith flavors, all wrapped around dried fruit, toast, nuts. | 93