Tim Atkin : Still youthful colour. Eucalyptus notes dominate on the nose and palate. Decent wine, but the tannins seem quite dry and emphasised by the mint. Not overoaked, well made, serious fruit. Dry finish. 14.5

Oz Clarke: Quite deep red. Rich yet minty and attractive nose, and some lovage. On the palate, good stuff. Unlike the preceding ones in that it is big and rich and stewy in an attractive way. The tannin certainly nips on your gums, but along with all this is a sense that this is proper stuff. Full, with black-plum and blackcurrant fruit. A definite waft of mint perfume to offset a lemon acidity and a vaguely ill-educated tannin. But the final effect - again - is that I feel this wine is expressing its place and its creator, and so its minor faults become mere quibbles. It isn’t the most perfect wine - I’d like a slightly more couth tannin, for instance - but this is the wine as it wants to be. 17