Alison Buchanan: Deep ruby in color, firm to rim, this presents a rather dark, earthy nose. The palate then offers an array of very primary, accessible, but essentially simple fruit, a little sweet with little drive—liquid candied fruit—lacks focus and energy. | 75

Andrew Jefford: Deep, dark, opaque black-red: a Vintage Port style. Leggy in the glass. Dusty, beefy scents, with just a little resin and camphor, and shy black-plum fruits beneath: attractive. Fruitcake richness brings the aromatic spectrum together. Dense, full, earthy, with lots of those salty-beefy plums on the palate; plenty of gratifying sweetness, with balance coming from a little welcome tannic wealth, the warmth of the brandy and the slow- release richness of fruit. Finely crafted and successful. | 91

Margaret Rand: Doesn’t look tawny—looks very deep, opaque black with a red rim. Not much on the nose. Palate is massive, with bitter tannins tamed by sweetness. Pretty raw, rustic stuff at the moment. The finish is not enormous. Good texture, though. | 85