Andrew Jefford | Pale and youthful in appearance for its vintage. Classically sweet, late-harvest scents rather than a vin de terroir approach. In truth, not a lot of Gewurz specificities: some gingery grain, but it’s the late harvest one smells. Generous, sweet, and bright on the palate: a sugar-fest, but it lacks aromatic complexity. | 84

Charles Metcalfe | Pale gold color. Toasty, mature aromas, with notes of marzipan, lemon zest, and barley- sugar. There’s a hint of propolis (“bee glue”) to this, mingled with the toasty, lemon-zest flavors, and sprightly acidity. This seems a wine at peak maturity, but lean and toned, ready to carry on for some time yet. Just shows what high acidity and balanced sugar can do to help a wine age. The finish is marzipan and beehives, and the length is considerable. | 96

Jancis Robinson | Doesn’t seem to be showing its age on the basis of its deep straw color, but it’s a bit fossilized rather than evolved on the nose. Lots of sweetness. Easy and round but not that fresh. Lots of beeswax. Why wasn’t this sold long ago, I wonder. Quite long. Drink 2013–20. | 85