Andrew Jefford | Mid-gold, bright. Sweet, warm, honeyed, and enticing: there are some gentle truffley complexities if you hunt them down. Excellent if undemonstrative aromas, but with time in the glass it may grow more articulate. Deep and lively wine, with way more acidity than is the norm for this tasting, so a “classic” dessert wine balance. The drawback is that it isn’t anywhere near the exotic, mood-altering, mind-changing, horizon-shifting ideal of Gewurz in Alsace, which is necessarily baroque. | 84

Charles Metcalfe | Golden color. Rich, creamy, opulent aromas, with toasty maturity. There’s good acidity, as well, and this supports the inherent richness of the wine. It is already very drinkable, with flavors of litchi, honey, and apple, and will probably develop further, as the creamily aromatic length suggests. | 91

Jancis Robinson | Very deep copper color. Swingeing acidity on a big, bold sweet platform—not very integrated. Sour. Drink 2015–18. | 85