Andrew Jefford | Pale to mid-gold. Very exotic, very fruity scents: green plums left in the sunshine till they dimple and ooze sugars. Some apricot, too. Quite delicious to smell, yet I wouldn’t shout out, “Ah, Gewurz!” This completely describes the palate also: baked green plums, succulent and sweet. But with Gewurz on the label, you do hope for a bit more aromatic density and power. Generous sugars. | 85

Charles Metcalfe | Yellow with a suggestion of gold. Rather dumb on nose, with some honey and a hint of lemon. The palate is more open but weighty and sweet, and the alcohol reinforces the sugar. There is acidity, but it rather fades beneath the weight of the sugar and alcohol. | 85

Jancis Robinson | Fresh, simple nose with floral notes (lilies?). There’s a bitter note on the end. Pungent and interesting, with more apparent sweetness than most. Just not that fresh and compelling. Drink 2015–20. | 88