Andrew Jefford | Paler than most of its peers: silver-gold. Orchard fruits and sweet flour, but perhaps just a little less resonance than most. Enchanting, nonetheless. Choice, deft, articulate, super-limpid, and pure: fruits, declined (in the grammatical sense). Apple, grape, pear, quince, green plum, lemon. Some would find stone, though for me that “otherness” is very discreet, and the fruits are firmly center-stage. Wonderful purity and length, and done so delicately: no one is insisting on anything here; it is just all arrayed alluringly in front of you. It’s a much better wine on the palate than I suspected from the aroma, so perhaps those aromas need time to develop (as they certainly will). Glorious, mouth-filling, fruited warmth after the wine has left the mouth. So fruity I am assuming Germany, but am probably wrong. Protestant or the high north. | 92

Stephan Reinhardt | Intense and almost dusty in its lovely, ripe, concentrated, clear, and aromatic fruit and dominant crushed stone aromas, this is a full-bodied, round, intense, elegant, mouth-filling, and refined Riesling, with fine tannins and a sustainable salinity on the still slightly austere but complex and tannic finish. Impressive wine that needs some years to open up. 2026–40. | 93+

Anthony Rose | Pale lemon in color, this is a tad shy on the nose; there’s a light prickle to the fruit, perhaps from the lees, which is more intense than the aromas suggest. Nicely tangy and citrusy, it pinches the tongue on the finish with an appetizing dryness that cries out for food. | 90