Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve | Exceptionally refined and elegant in this vintage, with the advantage of grapes resulting from impeccable viticulture. We shall be following the Smith-Malartic contest with delight over the coming years. | 95

Michael Schuster | Ripe, black-fruit nose; elegant mid-weight, fresh, finely tannic, not fat in any way; a slender, linear wine, with very fine-textured tannins; dry yet ripe in flavor, subtle, gently mineral, long to taste, graceful, discreet, almost delicate, yet without any weakness and with fine length. Classic Graves proportions, and what the French might call a vin fin de redemande—the main point, after all! Will be delicious, and from relatively early. 2025–38+. | 91–92+