Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Wonderful aromatic finesse, set off by well-judged oak (not a trace of sootiness, just an exceptional array of cedar notes). A fresh and elegant wine, unusually mouth-filling, with tannins that are just a touch sharper than the Branaire. 16.5

Michael Schuster: Dense, crisply ripe-fruit and mineral nose; elegant balance, with a notable density for Beychevelle; a firm but fine tannin round a nice, fleshy core; a gentle, generous wine with a long, easy, juicy fruit and excellent aromatic length. A most attractively appetizing quality from the combination of ripeness and freshness. 2014–24. 15.5/16