Andrew Jefford | Clear red, though not notably brown. Settled, articulate, but fatigued aromas of wood and stewed plums. The palate is just about in touch, but all the fruit flesh is tumbling off the acid skeleton, and there isn’t much plain pleasure left, other than for those who have a fetish for the old under any circumstances. I can tell that this was a good, ripe, well-made wine when young and might have merited a top score at two or three years... But for me it is way too old, and all the pleasure has gone. A clattering acidic finish. | 75

Anne Krebiechl | Earthy notes dominate: Forest floor and mellow red fruit combine. The palate is evolved and now majors on savoriness rather than mere fruit, even though highlights of redcurrant linger. This has lovely balance and depth with an unforced, central core of vivid, crunchy, still firm fruit with illuminating freshness. The finish is long and pure. This draws you in. | 95

Jancis Robinson | Pale blueish crimson. Mushrooms and pleasure on the nose, even if the smoked-meat palate is a little lacking juice. Some length and substance. Clean. 2013–20. | 89