Andrew Jefford: Pale to mid-gold in color. Lots of fruity exuberance, but slightly coarse-grained fruit; lacks precision and finesse. On the palate, this is the sweetest wine so far, and it seems to lack central-palate core and drive, fruit power, and aromatic resonance. Doesn’t seem to belong in this tasting. Perhaps the sweetness just puts it into a different register, for which the first 18 wines haven’t completely attuned me, but in context it seems a little slight and trivial, though I’m sure the vineyards are good and it would make attractive apéritif sipping. 13.5

Andreas Larsson: Young and slightly closed on the nose, with hints of minerals, young fruit, and some herbal notes; the palate is offering an intense sweetness and layers of stone fruit in a light body; very elegant and lingering, with a bright freshness backing up the sweetness: truly stylish. 17.5

Stephan Reinhardt: Brilliant greenish white. My God, this is a refined nose! And it’s fruity and aromatic again! Liberated from yeast! Pure and lovely Riesling, ending a fascinating circle. Okay, this might be a little bit reductive, and there are aromas of spontaneous fermentation, but the fruit is very Riesling. And the palate! Sappy, sweet, light, piquant. I do not spit. It is a reflex to swallow it. Does anybody spit this? (Must be a real professional, if so.) This wine is incredibly sappy, fruity, and piquant, like a dancing Kabinett. (More likely it is a dancing, weightless Spätlese.) Precise and super-ripe Riesling grapes of yellow-golden color. Piquant acidity. Less complex but much more charming than most of the first 18 wines. Riesling takes it all. One last sip, and my glass is empty. Very salty and with a thrilling minerality. This wine is all about elegance and finesse. Although it tastes just great today, it will benefit from bottle age. But I can forgive and understand anybody who cannot wait. 18