Andrew Jefford | Pale to mid-gold. Fresh, yet a riper style of fruits: the creamy nougatine over apricot here almost evokes Condrieu. It must come from a warm site, yet it still has ample freshness and poise: exquisite scents. Lush and southern, with more apricot and nougatine on the palate; some vinosity and length, and a little sweetness, which absolutely belongs since it chimes so well with the fruit style. Gorgeous, melting Riesling in the mouth, with delicious alcoholic warmth. Very sensually alluring. The overall quality of aromatic opulence suggests Alsace, but in these climate- change days, who knows? More importantly, when a Rhine wine and a classic Riesling suggests Condrieu, where are we heading? (But this style might also be reconciled with the general spicy character of almost all Alsace wines—though I am aware that Pfalz has that too!) | 94

Stephan Reinhardt | Intensely yellow in color, this pure and initially yeasty Riesling is fresh and flinty on the nose yet still characterized by the skillful winemaking rather than the ripe, lush, and elegant fruit (that is expressed after some minutes in the glass) or the floral notes that come out even later. Round and juicy on the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich, generous, but very elegant, vital, and vibrant Riesling, with a concentrated and sustainable fruit that still lingers on the intense, long, and powerful finish. Still on the fruity side, this is a tasty, very salty, vital, powerful, highly complex Riesling for immediate pleasure but also with the capacity to age for 15 to 20 years or even more. 2021–45. | 93+

Anthony Rose | Behind the pale greeny golden hue, there’s a distinctive aroma mingling notes of ripe fruit and celery salt and a faint prickle of refreshment. full-bodied fruit, whose stone-fruit flavors are nicely developed in a wine that’s approachable now, albeit lacking a bit in sufficient acidity to take it to the next stage of aging. | 89