Jesús Barquín | Deep, almost opaque cherry, with garnet rim suggesting age. Emerging leather and other tertiary notes combine with a vegetal hint. It is, however, pretty solid on the palate, with unresolved, even aggressive, tannins. This is a brawny red, and only time will tell if it will ever mellow and become pleasant to drink. | 87

Andrew Jefford | Another testament to the polyphenolic endurance of Bierzo: This remains fiercely dark almost a decade on. Firm, deep, rich, oaky but not exaggeratedly so; fresh, pure, and lively red wine in early maturity. On the palate, it’s a ringing success: a cascade of lively, mid-life fruit, supported by ample tannins, and with the perfumes of maturity blowing to and fro within it. It has the cool freshness of the place; its “mineral” force and its textural tenacity. It has purity and poise; it has the seriousness that makes its flavors of true gastronomic interest. There’s an aniseed finesse on the finish: a southern touch amid so much cool-climate (for Iberia) grandeur. Another outstanding effort in this hugely exciting tasting, and the fact that this is the oldest wine in the tasting, too, shows the absolute assurance with which the wines of this DO can age. I’m impressed. | 95

Richard Mayson | Still deep, dark, and youthful in appearance after nearly a decade; ripe, open, and minty on the nose, seemingly well integrated, with depth underlying; firm, ripe berry fruit, well structured, standing up well, supported by ripe tannins that keep the wine going on the finish. Ripe blackberry fruit all the way through to the finish. | 90