Bruno Besa | Garnet to tawny. Closed nose, a touch of smoked meat and plums yet clean and mineral. Medium body, sweet prune fruit, long and salty, violets and roses on the finish. | 92

Stephen Brook | Smoky, floral, red-fruits nose. Fairly rich, this has limpidity and freshness, as well as some weight of fruit. The tannins are ripe, and there’s no excessive effortfulness. The acidity seems low, and there is a lack of drive—a shame, because it begins promisingly. Medium length. | 87

Andrew Jefford | Translucent red. Plenty of ripeness on the nose here, yet the fragrance is still carrying the fruit admirably, and there are beginning to be some mushroomy complexities. Just a touch of raisiny ripeness. Elegant, fresh, and open; admirably aged. This fine wine, though, is a little more purely predicated on its fruit than the best of its peers, and there is a cleansing dryness beneath; your decision as to whether this is what you are looking for or not, but for me its gracefulness is very nearly slight. Chiffon-textured Barolo, in sum, for lovers of Chambolle, but up there at the top of the premier league, for sure. | 94