Stephen Brook : Ripe peachy nose, lanolin, marzipan. Rich, broad, lacks some concentration and vigour. There's something hard and sour about the acidity, though the fruit doesn't seem unripe. The finish is unpleasant and relatively short. 10

Jancis Robinson: Pungent, very mineral indeed - quite an attention-grabber. Rich and racy - almost soft relative to some. I wouldn't keep this a long time, but there is a lot packed in for current pleasure. A very big-boned wine with notable alcohol. 15

Alexander Scott: This is much better than the St Nikolaus. No reduction, ripe, with an agrume tone (orange and grapefruit peel rather than lemon or lime). A classic middle-Rheingau style. Totally dry, almost austere, but the fullness of extract carries it. Very good indeed. 16.5