Andrew Jefford: Full, lush gold. Super-rich aromatic profile, with lots of almost dangerously enticing scents of ultra-ripe peaches and apricots dripping their juices everywhere. You’d certainly never guess from the aroma or the colour that this was going to be a dry wine, yet it is, pretty much. Big, soft, buxom, statuesque, matronly - but dryly vinous, firm, long, chewy. Alcoholic, certainly; yet there is plenty of exotic, almost guava-like fruit to give it a kind of masterful northern enchantment. We are definitely no more than halfway to the Clare Valley! This is very good wine and a fitting tribute to this extraordinary vintage. Are we really still in the Mosel? It hardly seems possible. 16.5
Simon Larkin : As golden as any wine presented so far. Could pass as a sweet Chenin on sight alone. The nose also suggests anything other than a dry style. Tangy and almost botrytised in character - bizarre, to say the least, with tangy, tangerine qualities and a phenolic edge. Reminiscent of a Zind-Humbrecht Clos Hauserer with some lack of poise. Full, bold - makes a statement with an almost piercing quality but stands out as an oddball. The warmth on the finish is my main criticism. Unusual, puzzling but equally rather good if not classical! 16.5
Alexander Scott: More golden colour and marked super-ripeness here, even some botrytis, which personally I find foreign to dry wines. As expected, the palate is hot and roasted and rather one-dimensional, with an ungainly finish. Impressive in its way (like some of Dagueneau’s Pouilly-Fumes), but not for me. 11.5
Details
Wine expert | Andrew Jefford Simon Larkin Alexander Scott |
Tastings year | 2005 |
Region | Rheingau |
Peter Jakob Kühn

