Stephen Brook: Pretty nose, pear drops. Quite rich, full-bodied, juicy, plenty of upfront fruit, lively, and tangy acidity follows. Not much complexity but has zest and, again, that pear-drop tone on the finish. 14.5

Jancis Robinson: Intriguing and open. Very tangy and racy - not unlike the first wine in this Rheingau section, the Weingut Graf Von Kanitz Lorcher Pfaffenwies. Fine, prancing, dancing. Very refreshing. Neat, persistent finish. 15.5

Alexander Scott: Pure class. At first there is a Mozartian lightness of touch, but then surprising power and depth, with palate-gripping intensity right through to its lingering end. Everything in place. If this is still Hochheim, we're in one of its very top sites, not among the sandier soils. 17. 5